Hotel Peter & Paul in New Orleans

Photo Credit: Leora Novick/Business Insider

A former schoolhouse, rectory, church, and convent, Hotel Peter & Paul in New Orleans is loaded with whimsical character like a guest room hidden within a stage — here's what it's like to stay in this historic charmer

These days, New Orleans attracts a fair share of visitors solely intent on late-night adventures along Bourbon Street. 

However, there's so much more rich culture, vibrant gastronomy, and history to this city, and many other types of travelers besides boozy bachelorettes.

Those who value a quiet base and a good night's sleep, but still want that blend of local color and tradition should look to the charming neighborhood of Marigny, located east of the French Quarter and North of the Mississippi River.

This is the neighborhood for those of us who identify as travelers, not tourists. Marigny begs to be toured on foot, with quiet cafes dotting most corners, bookended by pastel-hued homes and, yes, the occasional beaded tree.

Evening sounds are peppered with crickets rather than drunken bar crawlers, and the scent of magnolia and honeysuckle blossoms perfume the air.

It's in this idyllic, mostly residential nook that you'll find one of my favorite hotels, Hotel Peter & Paul. Housed in a former structure that was once a rectory, schoolhouse, convent, and church all in one, it brims in history. And you feel it ⁠— the hotel even holds weddings and events in the still-sacred decommissioned church space.

Surprisingly, there's not a lot of upcharge to experience such character. If you're traveling on a budget like I was, options like the entry-level School House Petite start at $174 per night are delightful. If you're traveling with a larger party or have some room the splurge, the site of the former Rectory is home to larger suites with rich red trimmings, limestone bathtubs, and lush courtyard views, ranging in price from $249 to $599 per night.

I opted for the second entry tier, the School House Classic, which starts at $194 per night and at my time of booking was $220 per night. As a journalist, I was given one night complimentary for review, and my remaining two nights at a media rate of $129. However, after three nights, I quickly determined that I would happily pay the rack rate. Staying here is special, and well worth the money.

As your car pulls up to the corner block of Hotel Peter & Paul in New Orleans' Marigny (pronounced Mair-in-yee) neighborhood, I noticed a collection of brick buildings and an impressive looking church all clustered together. Turned out, this was the hotel.

Rebuilt in a former schoolhouse, rectory, convent, and church, the hotel was designed jointly by ASH NYC and local New Orleans resident Nathalie Jordi. It's been faithfully restored and pays homage to its former life through preserved details and vintage, period furniture.

I was instantly impressed. I gazed in awe, and my cab driver must have taken note because he shared that he had only heard great things about the hotel and its restaurant, which served to further solidify my excitement.

I pushed past the Kelly green double doors and entered what was once the schoolhouse. An imposing wooden staircase led up to the building's guest rooms, while a small reception desk awaited to the right.

The hotel doesn't waste much real estate. The front desk is small and a bit dark, hidden under an overhang, but it serves its function well. I found the staff to be more than ready to make up for any lack of grandeur at check-in with friendly, signature New Orleans service.

When I checked in, the front desk staff winked as they handed over my neon yellow room key, and told me to look out for a surprise on my way to my room. As I stepped out of the elevator onto the third floor and walked down the hallway, I passed many rooms but none were mine. Towards the end of the hallway, I entered a large room full of antique loungers and day beds.

The main attraction was a giant stage running nearly the length of the room, complete with pistachio green curtains and a painted backdrop.

Upon closer inspection, I realized that the door to my room, and several others, were actually built into the stage's backdrop. The doors were part of the painted scenery. That was pretty cool.

Not all School House Classic rooms come with this feature, so if you're looking for a little extra fun and whimsy, call ahead and ask if the stage rooms are available.

After turning a pirouette on the third-floor stage, I entered my School House Classic room.

While not too spacious in size, the team at ASH NYC thoughtfully designed the space with blue gingham curtains that flowed from ceiling to floor, as well as a wire canopied bed that rose up in the room's center.

Matching blue accents, a nod to Marie Antoinette's favorite color perhaps, dotted the room with a painted armoire, as well as a desk chair with tufted seat cushion upholstered in twin gingham.

A small desk completed the look and was adorned with a delightful read: a hotel guest book on New Orleans that read more local legend than where to go. Make sure to keep an eye out for the exercising versus exorcising section.

The small room size was perfect for me as I tend to spend most of my travel time indoors, but it was ample enough for me and my friend to both get ready each morning in privacy. The bathroom, however, was tight. The bright blue-tiled shower helped distract from the cramped quarters, but the small bathroom made me realize I was happy that I hadn't booked the Petite room, which would have been even smaller.

Petite rooms are the cheapest in price but very compact. I'd recommend this room only to solo travelers, or a couple with little luggage and who only plan to use their room to sleep. Indeed they only have a full or queen bed. They do have private bathrooms, and are furnished with similar antique pieces. But it's not totally roughing it either. All Petites include flat-screen TVs, complimentary WiFi, custom Italian linens, locally sourced snacks, air conditioning and toiletries made exclusively for Hotel Peter and Paul.

More than just the rooms themselves, it's the full experience that draws visitors to Hotel Peter & Paul.

The star attraction was The Elysian Bar, the hotel's bar and restaurant, which was curated by Bacchanal Wine and certainly lives up to the local bar's highly-esteemed reputation. Plates average from $11 to $15 and the serving size feels share-worthy, while cocktails are reasonably priced at $9 and a glass of wine can range from $9-$11. Try the whipped ricotta flatbread and fried Brussels sprouts.

I liked the multitude of seating options, which included the breakfast room patterned after Monet's well-known sunshine yellow kitchen in Giverny. The outdoor garden featured fountains, climbing vines, and twinkle lights, and the bar itself was a standout with crimson topped rattan stools and an impressive piece of woodwork at the center. Finally, the front room offers fireplace dining in overstuffed yellow gingham chairs and gilded accents.

If you're just looking for something to start your day, grab a coffee and fresh pastry nestled inside the former chapel, or make it a sweet southern breakfast with a scoop of ice cream (vegan options included!) at the airy Sundae Best ice cream parlor.

The hotel offers daily tours of the property, giving background on its past life and showcasing the church, now mainly used for private events. The staff is friendly and knowledgeable, and they have a text message service to easily ask questions throughout your stay such or offer local recommendations.

The former church still functions as one. The 9,450-square-foot decommissioned red-brick Catholic church was formerly known as Sts. Peter and Paul, and was designed by New Orleans architect Henry Howard.

These days, the hotel hosts both private and public gatherings in this still-sacred space.

Trip Advisor has ranked the hotel 4.5 out of 5-stars with rave reviews and is currently ranked 14 out of 174 hotels in New Orleans. Similarly, Booking.com has the hotel ranked at a 9.3 and listed as one of their top picks in New Orleans.

Most reviewers tend to highlight the hotel's decor and location as their favorite elements along with the food and drink options.

The more disappointing factors seem to be the open door shower concept (read: no door) and the fact that the quiet neighborhood felt a bit less inviting at night.

Who stays here: 

Design-focused millennials, wedding guests, and travelers looking for the next New Orleans neighborhood.

We like: 

The hotel's layout. With several buildings to explore, it feels like you are constantly discovering something new. And with budget-friendly room options, consider sizing up to add a bit more space to stay.

We love (don't miss this feature!): 

The food and drinks at The Elysian Bar. Even if you don't spend the night, it's worth it to visit for a meal alone.

We think you should know:

This hotel is not located on Bourbon Street. If you're looking for a party environment, this is not the hotel for you.

We'd do this differently next time: 

Consider a different room category. Each room type is different, so it would be interesting to try a different look, and with the introductory prices only $20/night higher from the entry-level Petite to a Classic room, it's worth the small splurge. 

Hotel Peter & Paul offers a design-focused New Orleans experience in a neighborhood for the next set of cool kids.

Whether you're visiting with friends or attending a wedding at the hotel's church (yes, they host them!), this property is the full package at rates that don't break the bank. Starting at just $194/night, you can stay in the mid-level School House Classic room, the perfect size for two.

Further, the memorable F&B, which includes an ice cream parlor, as well as the replica of Monet's kitchen, and outstanding service make for a hotel loaded with historic charm and whimsical details to uncover from the very first moment.